Tower of London Guided Walk

23.6.11
This was really a tour round the exterior of the Tower, packed with historical detail, rather than a guided walk.
Unfortunately, the weather was absolutely dreadful! It rained the whole time, and this was driving rain and wind! Not pleasant for standing around listening - fascinating though it was!

I managed to learn a fair bit about the history of the Tower - there was too much of it to go into here, so I will just pick out a few highlights.

William the Conqueror and the Normans invade England in September 1066 and commence their strategy of building castles. A timber Motte and Bailey castle is first built on the site of the Tower of London. In 1078 a stone built, fortified, Tower was commissioned by William the Conqueror replacing the timber tower - it was called the Great Tower which was later re-named the White Tower. It was completed in 1097.

Over time the buildings were developed and extended until it became what it is today. Many famous prisoners were held in the Tower and also executed there. Animals were kept at the Tower - even a polar bear and an elephant! They were finally moved out in 1834 and London Zoo was created.
Among the last prisoners to be held there were the Kray twins for four days in 1952 for failing to report for national service!

White Tower

Waterloo block - the Crown Jewels

The crown jewels have been here on public display since the 17th century, with only one attempt being made to steal them - obviously unsuccessfully!

If you are interested in armour, there is a spectacular display of royal armour and their horses inside the White Tower. Well worth a visit.

         

Henry V111's horse

The ravens are a famous sight at the Tower of London. Legend has it that Charles 11 was told that if the ravens left the Tower, the kingdom and the fortress would fall. Ravens have always been kept at the Tower since that time (their wings are clipped so that they can't fly away!).

I don't think I have even been as wet as I was at the end of the day!

Covent Garden and the South Bank

21.6.11
Today I went to meet my niece, Katie, for lunch so no guided walk. However, I did some exploring on my own. We had a good lunch at the Kitchen Italia - reasonable prices and tasty food. After lunch we went to Katie's office round the corner so I could see where she worked. Doesn't she look efficient!

Katie had to get back to work so I decided to have a wander round Covent Garden. I did some research on its history and discovered that it was originally the site of a convent - hence 'covent' - and its garden. The area was bought and developed by John Russell, the first Earl of Bedford, in 1552. He employed Inigo Jones to build the elegant Italian-style piazza. Inigo Jones was the first significant British architect of the modern period and the first to bring Italianate renaissance architecture to England.

After the fruit and veg. market was moved in 1974 property developers tried to take over the site and there was even talk of demolishing the market to make way for a road! Fortunately, local residents fought to save it and it was transformed into what it is today.






I decided to cross over the River at Waterloo Bridge and passed Somerset House on the way. William Chambers designed the house in 1775 on the site of an earlier Tudor palace. It had to accommodate the three principal learned societies - the Royal Academy of Arts, the Royal Society, and the Society of Antiquaries - as well as various government offices. In particular, he had to provide the Navy Board with quarters that would reflect the rising importance of the Navy at a time when Britain was almost constantly at war. It now contains three museums, is a venue for concerts in the summer, while the courtyard is turned into an ice rink in the winter.

 

I couldn't resist stopping for some photgraphs on the bridge to give some idea of the views.

Having crossed over I entered the area called the South Bank. Two of the City's newest landmarks are located here - namely the London Eye and the Tate Modern. There are many arts venues here - to name a few: the National Theatre, the Royal Festival Hall, Queen Elizabeth Hall, the Hayward Gallery. I just wanted to walk along the river and take in the sights. There were some interesting people to see:
                                                                                                                                          

                                    

 I have no idea why they were dressed this way!I took one last look over the River at the Houses of Parliament and decided to take my tired feet home on the River Clipper. 

 

The Old Palace Quarter - Guided Walk

20.6.11
We are talking about the old quarter of St. James. Many years ago, along with the square mile of the City of London, this area was all there was to London. All around them was countryside.
The story of St. James' Palace really begins with Henry V111 when he brought his bride (second wife Anne Boleyn) here for their honeymoon. It was then a hunting lodge and had been developed from a leper hospital.
All that now remains of the original hunting lodge is the gatehouse - today the clock tower. Up till the time of Queen Victoria monarchs spent time here, especially after the Palace of Whitehall burnt down in 1698, when the Court was centred here.

St. James' Palace is still used sometimes as a royal palace. Prince Charles lived here after his separation from Princess Diana, although he moved next door to Clarence House after his grandmother died. Diana's body lay in state here the night before her funeral. Today there are some grace-and-favour appartments here.

The man who came up with the plan to create a new, fashionable 'West End' was Henry Jermyn, the Earl of St. Albans. St. James' Square was the first part of the new area to be completed. In 1684 a new church, designed by Sir Christopher Wren, was built and called St. James' Piccadilly.

inside the church

It was during the reign of Charles 11 that the area gained some notoriety as a place where the wealthy kept establishments for their mistresses. Two of Charles 11's mistresses lived near here - Barbara Castlemaine and also Nell Gwyn. These 'ladies' were the style icons of the day and were socially acceptable in public, if not in private!
The area also became something of a domain for the gentleman of the day, starting with the coffee houses, many of which later became gentlemens' clubs. There are still some there today - Brooks is one of London's most exclusive gentlemens' clubs, founded in 1764 by 27 men, including four dukes. It was a meeting place for Whigs. Across the road is 'Boodles' and further up the road is 'Whites' - the oldest of the clubs in this area. One of its most famous members is Beau Brummel who used to sit in the window so that passers-by could benefit from seeing his fashion choices! David Cameron's father was a chairman there. Members of the Royal Family usually become members of this club.

The area's shops are expensive and independent, individual and old-fashioned.

Fortnum and Mason is the most famous. Its fortune was built on candle wax! Apparently, William Fortnum was a footman in service to Queen Anne. She liked to have all the candles in the palace replaced each night with new ones - the resulting stubs were sold on by Fortnum and, eventually, he was able to open a modest shop with his landlord, Mr. Mason.

Another of the grand houses in this area is Spencer House built for the first Earl Spencer, an ancestor of Diana Spencer, Princess of Wales. The house is now owned by the Rothschilds and used as their headquarters during the week. It is possible to visit the house at the weekend and it is well worth it. The interiors were conceived as a showcase of classical design.

View of the house from Green Park

Old Chelsea Village Guided Walk 8.6.11

The name 'Chelsea' comes from the Anglo-Saxon - hithe or hethe being a landing place, chele built on chalk. This became synthesised over the years to 'Chelsea'.

Chelsea was dominated in the seventeenth century by a man called Hans Sloane - hence the names of the station, the square and some streets. He came from a wealthy family and studied to become a physician. For 26 years he was president of the Royal Society and was responsible for ensuring the survival of the Society of Apothecaries' Physic Garden.
Situated in the heart of London, this 'Secret Garden' is a centre of education, beauty and relaxation. Chelsea Physic Garden was founded by the Worshipful Society of Apothecaries of London in 1673 for its apprentices to study the medicinal qualities of plants. Throughout the 1700s it was one of the most important centres of botany and plant exchange in the world. It is London’s oldest botanic garden and a unique living museum.

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Sloane's daughter married Lord Cadogan - the current Lord Cadogan is one of this country's wealthiest people. Wealth is evident everywhere you walk in Chelsea.

Our first stopping off point was the Chelsea Hospital. It was founded in 1682 by Charles II for wounded soldiers "broken by age and war". He took the idea from 'Les Invalides' in France where he was living at the time. There is a statue of him (by Grinling Gibbons) in the grounds where 'Oak Apple Day' is celebrated each year. This was a holiday celebrated in England on May 29th to commemorate the restoration of the English monarchy in May 1660. The holiday was abolished in 1859 but is still celebrated here as 'Founders Day'. All the pensioners carry an oak tree branch to the statue until Charles II is completely hidden from view. This relates to when the future Charles II hid in an oak tree from the Roundhead army to escape detection!

Not far from the hospital is the house of Oscar Wilde at 34, Tite Street. He moved here after his marriage to Constance Lloyd. He became very friendly with Lord Alfred Douglas (known as Bosie) which did not meet with approval from Bosie's father, the Marquess of Queensbury. After accusations from the Marquess, Wilde began an action for defamation against him. He lost the trial and was later charged with gross indecency. He was imprisoned in 1895, released in 1897, left England and never returned.

We went on to view some other houses which have had famous occupants.

John Singer Sargent lived here

Dante Gabriel Rossetti's house

 

 

 

 

 

  

John Singer Sargent was an American painter - one of the leading portrait painters of his generation.
Dante Gabriel Rossetti (12 May 1828 – 9 April 1882) was an English poet, illustrator, painter and translator. He founded the Pre-Raphaelite Brotherhood in 1848 with William Holman Hunt and John Everett Millais, and was later to be the main inspiration for a second generation of artists and writers influenced by the movement, most notably William Morris and Edward Burne-Jones. His work also influenced the European Symbolists and was a major precursor of the Aesthetic movement. (Wikipedia)

Charles Rennie Mackintosh (7 June 1868 – 10 December 1928) was a Scottish architect, designer, watercolourist and sculptor. He was a designer in the Arts and Crafts movement and also the main exponent of Art Nouveau in the United Kingdom. He had a considerable influence on European design. He was born in Glasgow and he died in London. (Wikipedia).  He designed this house.

This house in Cheyne Walk was lived in by the painter Turner with his companion until his death in 1851.

 

This is a statue of St.Thomas Moore by Leslie Cubitt Bevis in front of Chelsea Old Church in Cheyne Walk.

Despite some severe rain at the start of the walk, this proved to be a most interesting and informative couple of hours.

The Old Jewish Quarter Guided Walk 1.6.11

This walk traces the history of London's Jewish community in the East End. Set amid the alleys and back streets of colourful Spitalfields and Whitechapel, it's a tale of synagogues and sweatshops, Sephardim (comes from the Hebrew word for Spain) and soup kitchens.
I found it fascinating how the East End backed so closely onto the City. Having walked around some of the back streets we went to visit the Bevis Marks synagogue which is thoroughly to be recommended. We were given a talk about the history of the synagogue and about its function today. It is an amazing building tucked away among many modern structures.

The synagogue, affiliated to London's historic Spanish and Portugese community, is the oldest synagogue in the United Kingdom still in use. It is the same today as it was 300 years ago, except for the roof which was destroyed by fire in 1738 and repaired in 1749. Being located in the city's financial district, the synagogue suffered some collateral damage from the IRA Bishopsgate bombing in 1993, but it was later restored. The interior is well worth a visit. There is a small entrance fee.

Petticoat Lane market    

 

 

A soup kitchen for the Jewish poor

   

The houses above were built originally for the Huguenots (they were driven from France during a series of religious persecutions) who came here to settle in the 17th century. They were then taken over by the Jewish community, then by the Bangladeshis and are finally becoming residences for the more up and coming! It is located quite close to Brick Lane which is the heart of the city's Bangladeshi community and is known to some as Banglatown. It is famous for its curry houses.

 

We completed our walk opposite Spitalfields Market which is definitely worth a visit. It has many stalls ranging from clothes to food. I even managed to get a piece of wheat-free cake!

 

Highgate Cemetery Tour 28.5.11

I have always wanted to visit Highgate Cemetery after seeing it used as a backdrop in various films over the years. It looked quite atmospheric and spooky on the screen and I wanted to see if it was the same in reality. It certainly was! The West Cemetery is the one with the spooky atmoshpere and you need to book a guided walk round it. It is well worth it as they take you to various graves of interest. You can also visit the East Cemetery over the road. You have to pay again, but do not need to go on a tour - you can just wander at will.

 

 

    

Karl Marx's grave in the East Cemetery

Little Venice to Camden Lock

25.5.11
Little Venice is the point where Regent's Canal meets the Grand Junction Canal. It may not have quite the glamour of Venice, but it has its own picture-postcard charm. The canal is lined with weeping willows, and flanked by graceful stucco Regency mansions, many designed by the celebrated architect John Nash. An island in the centre is called Browning's island, after the poet Robert Browning who lived nearby.
The Regent's Canal was originally built to link the Grand Junction Canal's Paddington arm with the Thames. It was named after the Prince Regent, later King George IV. It was opened in 1820 at a total cost of £772,000, twice the original budget. It faced several engineering glitches in its first year, but later became an important artery for cargo passing through London.

You can stop for a drink and a snack next to the canal and after you are suitably refreshed take a canal trip down the canal with the London Waterbus Company to Camden

Westminster Guided Walk

25.5.11
My second guided walk led me to Westminster. To start we looked at the heraldry of this area. A crowned portcullis is the symbol of Parliament and of the City of Westminster. Once you start looking you see it everywhere!The new parliamentary office building is called Portcullis House - its roof is essentially a portcullis.

Have a closer look at Big Ben. Directly below the apex there are six gilded windows. Inside the room behind the windows there is a powerful lantern. This is lit when Parliament is sitting at night. This is the time to visit and watch Parliament in action from the Strangers' Gallery as there is unlikely to be a queue!

Another interesting curiosity is the lamp standard on the corner of the fence. It's the House of Commons taxi lamp. It flashes on and off when an MP wants a taxi!

If you keep walking along the front of the Houses of Parliament you will eventually come to the statue of Emmeline Pankhurst (née Goulden; 14 or 15 July 1858 – 14 June 1928) who was an English political activist and leader of the British suffragette movement, which helped women win the right to vote. In 1999, Time named Pankhurst as one of the 100 Most Important People of the 20th Century, stating: "she shaped an idea of women for our time; she shook society into a new pattern from which there could be no going back".^[1]
Although she was widely criticized for her militant tactics, her work is recognized as a crucial element in achieving women's suffrage in Britain. However, historians disagree about the effect of her activity on public support for the cause.^[2][3]

If you walk across the grass you will find yourself with the view of the Houses of Parliament that is often used when interviewing MPs on the television. You will also come across the small but rather beautiful building which celebrates the abolition of slavery.

And of course, no tour of Westminster would be complete without Westminster Abbey. Its formal name is the Collegiate Church of St. Peter at Westminster and it was first built by Edward the Confessor in the mid-eleventh century who wanted to be buried where St. Peter was supposed to have walked. You have to pay to enter and visit except if you want to attend a service. I thought it would be rather lovely to end the day with an Evensong service, but as my luck would have it, it was closed that day due to some concert!

Hampstead Village guided walk

A good way to explore London on foot is to join a guided walk. 'London Walks' is an organisation which conducts guided tours every day of the week and at all times of the day and evening. You simply meet up at the nearest tube station to the walk you have chosen. They normally take around two hours. 

My first walk was around Hampstead village. Hampstead has been described as London's skybox as it affords the best views in London.  The guide (Richard 111 - so called because there are five guides called Richard!) took us round the backstreets of the village showing us the houses of the rich and famous. It is a leafy, pretty suburb and you have to have plenty of money to live here!  The photo below shows Church Row - the finest Georgian street in London.

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 The Admiral's house is well worth a visit. It is situated in Admiral's walk off Hampstead Grove. The story goes that it belonged to an eighteenth century seadog who bought and sold slaves. The truth is a little more banal - it belonged indeed to a naval man - Lieutenant Fountain North. The house was designed to look like a ship with its railings, fo'c'sle and two cannon!

On Hampstead Heath there are 13 ponds. The picture below shows a dew-fed pond (as opposed to spring-fed). There are ramps at either end of the pond. In the days of horse-drawn traffic it was really hard work for the horses hauling carriages and wagons up the hill and the pond allowed the horses to have a drink and also, more importantly, to rehydrate the wooden wheels to ensure braking was possible on the way down.

At the top here there is a sensational panoramic view of London.

If you enjoy visiting National Trust properties there is a gem hidden among the houses. Fenton house is a 17th-century merchant's house virtually unaltered during more than 300 years of continuous occupation. There is an interesting collection of early keyboard instruments and a beautiful walled garden with topiary hedges and fine mixed borders. There was a magnificent view of London from a small balcony right at the top of the house. I enjoyed some peaceful moments sitting in the garden and resting my feet!